The Fantasticks

This is a Broadway Production that lives up to it's name. This show is absolutely hilarious, especially when performed by people who know how to make a story come alive.

For this show, the most complicated thing I did was to give someone a Black Eye. This is an easy trick that takes 3 colors.

Boom. Black Eye.

To do this you'll need the following colors: Yellow, Burgundy/Wine, Red. That's it. It can be grease paint, or powder. Doesn't really matter.

I used a grease paint, as I didn't have a whole lot of time, and I knew that that would be the quickest way to get the coloring I wanted. I used a sponge, as it has multiple sides, and I was able to flip it over to work as fast as possible. (I had like 3 minutes to throw this on.)

First, I did the Red all around the affected area (which in this case is obviously his eye). Above the brow, and on the lid, as well as under the eye, and a little on the bridge of the nose.

Then using a clean side of the sponge, I put the yellow on just under the bruise. So basically along the cheek bone.

I grabbed a small synthetic hair brush to put the burgundy/wine color on underneath the lower lid (where "bags" would be), and to create some "scratches" over the brow.

It's really that simple. For the Red you can use a blush, or lipstick. Or you can use the Theatre Effects "Injury Stack" at partycity.com, which has all the colors. Mostly available around Sept-Oct, but it's pretty cheap (like $2-3) so stock up.

Makeup Must-haves

I read an article today on yahoo.com that said that the 3 must-haves for you makeup bag (and by this, I am referring to what is in your purse) are concealer, mascara, and blush. Well I disagree. You need more than 3, and the 3 they picked aren't what I would suggest.

Concealer by itself is obvious. It stands out, and has a different texture and finish than your natural skin.Your first make up must have is a pressed powder foundation. Benefits of powder foundations?

1. They are lightweight on the face, but offer a sheer to a maximum coverage (depending on how you apply)
2. It is perfect for touch-up
3. Easy to carry and apply on-the-go

Blush, I agree, is a must have. However, blush can have warm or cool undertones. If you have only one blush in your bag, then you are doing yourself a disservice. But by saying "blush" you are limiting one to think, 'Oh, I only need one blush ever in my whole life.' NO. You need at least 2 - a warm and a cool blush. What I would recommend in its place is a light bronzer. It will give color, but in the sense of 'sun' versus 'blush.' Don't go bronzer heavy. This is not a coloring contest, but a quick swipe on the cheekbones, forehead and bridge of the nose will give you the color you need.

Mascara is a must have. Period. The mascara in your makeup bag should be black, and should be waterproof. This is so you can transform your look from day to night (remember, this the the makeup that is in your purse!), but also to touch up if needed.

You need 2 lip colors. This is an absolute necessary. One should be a gloss, preferably a clear or a very sheer color. This will be for touch ups throughout the day, but also to layer with a color that is more dramatic (your choice of a second color).

You need a black eyeliner (which should be a roll-up pencil so you don't have to search for a sharpener). Duh. To line your eyes. 

You need a neutral eyeshadow quad (4 shadow compact). Think browns. 

These products will create a full face, and can easily be added to your day look to create a fab night time look. They will fit in a small makeup bag, as most compacts come with applicators so you don't have to carry brushes/sponges. Just remember to wash them REGULARLY.

Black Eyeliner, and why you should own it.

Black eyeliner has been around for centuries, whether in the form of kohl, charcoal, smashed up bugs, whatever. It is obviously a beauty staple. Most people don't know how to wear it though. Either they go too heavy, or their liner ends up looking like they've recently been hit in the face. And that is never attractive.

Black liner goes with every skin type and every skin color. It looks good with just about anything that you're wearing (except for weddings, but that's a whole separate story).

Black liner looks good with a minimalist eye, and with a shitton of makeup. Why? Because it's fucking amazing.

Super close up, right?

Closed this time

Ok, on my right eye, I have done a double wing (look close and you'll see it!). Double wings are subtle, but very chic and sexy.

What I used (and how I feel about it):

Eye liner: Luxiva Lasting Creme Eyeliner by Merle Norman in Black

I love this liner. It is waterproof, and generally smudge proof as well. It drys as you apply, so you don't have to worry about waiting before you blink (or whatever). It comes in a 0.09oz pot, and it applies with a brush. Brush comes separately, which allows you to decide which brush works best for you. I used a flat-tip eyeliner brush for this.

All Over Shadow (Wash): Eyeshadow from Party Eyes by Merle Norman in Berry Bubbly

Meh. It was laying around, and I grabbed it. I purchased this for the purple liquid liner on the other side. I find that this shadow tends to crease, regardless of the shadow base used underneath, so when I use this, it only goes under the brows.

Crease Shadow: Matte Eyeshadow by MAC in Copperplate

I really like this color. It is a soft taupe, and looks good as a crease on a subtle smoky eye or as a lower liner/shadow. With my skin being oily, it does tend to get darker throughout the day, but I don't mind that.

Mascara: Creamy Flo Matic Mascara by Merle Norman in Black

This is a great basic mascara. It layers very well, and doesn't clump when you add additional coats. It's a similar bristle to Maybelline's Great Lash, but I find that this doesn't dry out as fast.

And on my left eye, I did a heavier application. This is probably not work appropriate, though.

What I used:

Brow Highlight Eyeshadow from Party Eyes by Merle Norman in Berry Bubbly

Lid (base)/Crease and Liner: Waterproof Shadow Liner by Smashbox in Envy

I don't know much about the waterproof claim. This actually came in a set. I bought it mostly for the brush, to be honest. It is ok, but it feels entirely too .. creamy for me to be comfortable considering this a "waterproof" product. In the container it looks like it has a bit of a glitter to it, but once on the eye, it looks pretty matte. Over all, it's ok, but I can get the same effect with things that I like a lot better.

Lid Shadow (layer): Veluxe Pearle Shadow by MAC in Silverthorn

I really like this color. I layered it on top of the black that I did all over my lid to create a dark pewter shade. This shadow blends very well (MAC shadows are definitely good for that). It is a blue-silver. Love it.

Mascara: Creamy Flo Matic Mascara by Merle Norman in Black

To find Smashbox: sephora.com

To find MAC: maccosmetics.com

To find Merle Norman: merlenorman.com or 1-800-MYMERLE to find a studio near you

**Merle Norman does not sell their products online. If you would like to purchase something, find a store that you don't mind calling, and place your order. Most stores will take a phone order and ship it right to your door!

Eyeliner

For some reason, everyone gets this wrong.

First of all, eyeliner is meant to look good. Drawing a thick black line around your eye with little to no shadow does not look good. In fact, it looks fucking ridiculous. If the goal is to look like you have been hungover for the past 2 days, then congratulations, cause that's what you look like.

Eyeliner should enhance the eye shape. It doesn't have to be natural, but the end result should not make you look like you just got hit in the eye.

There are loads of different eye liners out there, but it boils down to 3 basic ways that it's applied (the rest of it is just marketing gimmicks): pencil, liquid, or cream.

Pencil eyeliner should be obvious. It's in a pencil shape. You either sharpen it or roll it up. Pencil eyeliner is the easiest eyeliner to use, as the product is the applicator. If you can use a pencil, you can use this eyeliner. The key to not looking like a whore (and to not using too much product), is to put the pencil on the side, as if you were using the pencil to point at something.

When you put the pencil directly in front of your face, not only do you block your vision, but you put yourself in danger. 

What will you do if your neighbor's rabid cat suddenly attacked you? You'd fucking poke your eye out, and that is no fun.

Cream Eyeliner (Gel, cake, whatever. Like I said, it's all a gimmick) comes in a pot and you apply it with a separate brush. This type of liner is easy in the since that once it's there, it's dry. You don't have to worry about the liner transferring from your lash line up into your crease because it wasn't dry.

Cream liner is highly pigmented, and it is great for dramatic lines, but also for a color pop. Cream liner tends to stay in place longer, so if you're planning a long day, this liner will be your best friend.

When you apply cream liner, the brush you use should not be super wide, and should have a fine point. There are TONS of brush choices out there, so what ever you're comfortable with will work.

Quick Tip: If you're trying to get the winged look, use an angled eyeliner brush. Cat eyes (a la Amy Winehouse)? go for the long, pointed brushes.

Keep in mind that using the brush is the same as using the pencil!


Liquid Eyeliner is the hardest to use, simply as it needs to try. If you're only going to use it to fill the lash line, you should be fine, but a dramatic line? Better learn patience first. Liquid eyeliner tends to have an applicator in the top, and should be used the same as any other pencil/brush around the eye.


Quick Tip: Cream and liquid eyeliners follow the same rules as mascara. Once you open it, it needs to be thrown away after 4 months. PINK EYE IS NOT SEXY.

Blush. You needs it.

Ok. Why is it that women go to put blush on, and suddenly become blind?

Bitches, you look crazy.

Let me elaborate:

Blush, rouge, cheek color -- whatever you want to call it is not to be used as a paint. Blush should add color, yes, but you fools are going overboard.

To start, please look in the mirror when you apply. Blush should not be concentrated solely on the apples of the cheeks, but should be applied on the cheek bones as well. Bring it up toward the temples for a natural look.

Blush should look natural. Not sure what that looks like? Put on everything -- I mean every fucking thing: outfit, foundation, shadows, liner, mascara and lipstick -- then put your blush on. That way you can see what is too much. You will allow the other items to anchor the look. The blush should not anchor your face (if you're confused about that, either focus on your lips or eyes. Never cheeks, never both).

Brown blush will go with everything (warm or cool), Brown blush should be applied on the cheekbones, and on the temple for a sunkissed look.

Pink (and all pink derivatives) blush goes with a cooler color palette, and should be placed on the apples of the cheeks, and up the cheek bones for a natural flushed look.

Peach (and all peach derivatives) go with a warmer look. Peach is pretty versatile. It can be placed on the apples, along the cheek bones, and on the temple. Be careful with peaches -- because they are sheer, it is easy to go overboard.

Quick Tip: Apply your powder blush with the same brush you use to apply your face powder. That way, in the very rare time after reading this you do fuck your face up, you can blend it out with your powder. 


Powder blushes look good on any skin type, but they look better on skin that is not super dry. The powder will cling to it.

Cream blush look better on drier skin, as it gives the appearance of moisture. On oily skin, cream blush can give the appearance of extra shine.


Powder blush should be applied over your face powder, as it will blend easier. Alternatively, cream blush will blend easier when applied directly to your foundation and then the face powder blended in.


Cream blush is applied easier with a foundation blush; just keep in mind to not get too much product on the blush. Cream blush will get brighter the more you fuck with it.

As always, when in question, ask your friends. If they are able to see you from Sears, you're doing too fucking much. No one should be able to see you from across a fucking mall. Do not be that old lady who does what she was told looked good in 1965. It does not look good anymore.

Foundation, concealer, powder. The basic face -- try not to fuck it up.

Foundation. Base. Whatever you call it, it gives your skin a fresh look, and gives you a clean canvas for your makeup to sit on.

And every fucking day, y'all fuck it up.

Let us start with the basics:

Concealer: That's right, it's concealing stuff -- scars, redness, acne, bruises, that hickey where you stupidly allowed some ass to mark you -- when used correctly, concealer can hide lots of things.

Foundation: That goes on top of concealer, to blend everything in, and to make your skin look completely blemish free, no matter what your blemish is.

Powder: Goes on top of foundation. Powder is to be worn daily, no matter your foundation's finish. Powder will set your makeup, so your collar doesn't look like you've not bathed in months. It blends things, like blush gone wrong. Powder will finish any makeup look, natural to you-look-like-a-whore.

Concealer Brush: obviously for concealer. we've talked about this before.
Foundation Brush or sponge: yes, for the foundation
Powder Brush (or hell, even a sponge): for, you guessed it, powder.


And imagine that, everything is in the order in which you should use it.

First things first, let's discuss concealer. Concealer is to be used on the hot-spots only. Otherwise you will look fake, and completely over-made up.

Concealer comes in many colors. Confused on which one to buy? Thought so.

Green: This color is for people with a REDNESS-ONLY issue, typically those with rosacea (Think you have it? Ask a dermotologist.) Use this in the reddest areas -- generally on the apples of the cheeks, and on the tip of the nose. Once you calm those areas down, the rest will look normal. You typically want to use about half a pea-sized amount on those areas. Don't worry if you don't get it all; it will be covered by foundation.

Yellow: This is for very fresh, mostly purple bruising. Yellow by itself does not blend well, so mix this with your skin-tone concealer. This is to go only on the center of the purple-ness, blended into the skin-tone concealer. Again -- yellow in the center, skin-tone on the edge. blend them in the middle. This will help cover bruising from cataracts surgery (cause it will give you a serious black eye), hickeys, sports injuries, etc.

Lavender and Rose: This is for yellowed or sallowed skin. You can also blend those nasty green-yellow bruises with this, as it will tone down that ugliness.

Skin Tone: Use this under your eyes, on scars and blemishes, and to blend as needed.


Foundation is next -- It can be in a liquid or a cream, water or oil based - I'll go into more detail next time on the types, but let's talk about how much to apply, and where to put it.

Foundation should be applied from the center out. Let's dumb that down: Start at your nose, cheeks, and the center of your forehead. Use your foundation brush. Ok, picture time.

This is a foundation brush. Notice that the bristles are two-toned. That is both aesthetic, as well as useful for you to not fuck up your face.

See how you can't see that the bristles are different colors? That's cause you're using too much product.

Notice how you can see through the product to the bristle? That's how you know you're not about to fuck up your face.

That's all you need to have on the brush. You can always go back for more, but it's harder to take product off your face once it's there. Also, by starting at the center of your face, you don't have to worry about that dreaded line that people get around their jaw.

See the line near her ear? Yeah, so do I. Not sexy. 

Finally, you want to set with powder. Preferably, use a color close to your makeup, as it can be used for easy touch-ups during the day. Drier skins should use their powder brush to dust powder on to set their makeup. Oilier skins should use a sponge or puff to press (DO NOT RUB YOUR POWDER, as rubbing will remove any foundation and all that corrective concealer that you just put there!) powder onto the face. Powder will collect any excess oil and will keep your face shine-free.

Yeah, they're from the same night. Get over it. Nicole, you have on too much powder. It's fucking EVERYWHERE. Your nose, under your eyes, your cheeks. Next time, grab a clean brush and blend that shit down! You look ridiculous!

I'll leave you with the following comparison.

Now I love Xtina. Everyone who knows me, knows that to be a fair statement. However, whoever is doing her makeup should be shot. The makeup to the left is very good (and yes, it is a tad heavy, but when one is doing stage makeup (ie, anything that needs to hold up to a shit-ton of lights), it tends to be heavier. But the image to the right? What the fuck, Xtina? You have gone from grown-sexy-girl-next-door to Jersey Whore. I can't even see your skin under that pile of product. 

Ladies, please. Do not walk around looking like a Jersey Whore.

Pucker up!

Lips. Everyone has them. Lipstick is a fun color to play with, and similar to eyeshadow, everyone can wear every color -- it's a matter of finding the correct shade for your skin.

First things first: the tools.

Lip Liner:  Used to (obviously) line the lips. Liner comes in pencil form only, either sharpen or roll up. Lip liner is designed to keep the lipstick/gloss from feathering outward. Lip liner should be kept as close to the shade of lipstick/gloss that you are using, so a good rule of thumb is to have a warm, cool and neutral color of lip liner to get your color wardrobe started. Once you get the hang of it, feel free to have liner to match each shade of lip product you own!

Lip stick: This should be obvious. It's in a tube. Been around for a while. Lipstick will give the most color payoff.

Lip gloss: Gloss tends to be in a tube that applies with a doe foot (looks like a q-tip) or with a brush at the end. Gloss is sheer, and does not provide a lot of color, but does provide a nice shine.


Many makeup brands are starting to come out with all kinds of other kinds of lip products -- stain, glaze, etc. While they are nice, they're just fancy names for the 3 basics.

Ok, now that we know what to use, let's talk about how to use it.

Lip liner should not be obvious. Liner can be used to correct lip shapes that are not even, but is mainly there to keep your lip color from feathering out. Liner should be a natural color, or (even better) as close to the lip color you're wearing.

Quick Tip! Use liner all over to maintain your lip color longer.


To create the illusion of bigger lips, use gloss on top of your lip color, but mostly in the center of your mouth.



Try to use lip colors that work with the other colors you're wearing -- if you wear warm colors in your makeup/clothes, use a warmer lipstick (warm = brown, red, olives, oranges, etc). If you're a cooler person, use a cooler lipstick (cool = blue, purple, pink).

The best rule to keep in mind: when in doubt, ask your best friend. If they look at you like you've lost your mind, probably not the color for you.

SOME PLACES TO TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Merle Norman

MAC

Clinique

Mary Kay

Bobbi Brown

Many drugstores will allow you to bring back a lip product after you have used it (and changed your mind). Check your store's return policy to be sure.

Mascara

Ok, so the title is not catchy; get over it. We're talking about mascara.

Mascara is used to define the eye. Eyeliner is an aid to that, but have you seen celebrities "without" makeup? Yeah, they're totally wearing mascara.

Mascara comes in many different colors. Simple rule for that? Stick with what is natural to you: Natural Blondes and should use brown - platinum brown, very dark brown - it doesn't matter; just use a version of brown. It looks more natural. Always use 2 coats. (Now, if you're going dramatic, black is ok, but black tends to look harsher on people with those hair colors, as they tend to have fair skin tones). That way you get the color you want, without looking like a streetwalker. Brunettes should stick with black for the same reasons. Mascara with funky colors are ok for drama, but I tend to shy away from them as you can create that same look without having to spend the money (that tip is coming, hang on!).

When buying your mascara, you should think: What do I want my mascara to do?

Lengthening mascara tends to have a long cone-shaped bristle, and have long wands.

Thickening (aka Voluminous) mascara tend to have bristles that are close together and bulkier in the middle. 

You want both? Mascara that offers both of those benefits tend to have a long, bulky, cone-shaped bristle.

Then there is the regular mascara: that wand is simple, with a spiral bristle. This bristle helps to prevent clumps, but will only define your lashes but won't do anything more than that.

Quick Tip! Mascara has a short shelf life. Throw your mascara away after 4 months. Can't remember to do that? Remember my sharpie? Label your tube.


Quick Tip! Mascara should not clump up when you are putting it on, especially not after 2 coats. If it's clumpy, toss it.


Quick Tip! Mascara should not flake off. Flaky mascara is old mascara. Time to replace it.


Quick Tip! DO NOT SHARE YOUR MASCARA. PINK EYE IS NOT SEXY!

This is not what I put on this morning...

Have you ever put on a blush or a foundation in the morning, and about halfway through the day realized that it had drastically changed color? Foundation is too dark; blush is suddenly tangerine... Blame your skin.

Oily skin has a tendency to change the colors of your makeup throughout the day. It is a common problem, and one that can be solved in a few different ways:

The easiest way to avoid your makeup changing it's pigmentation is to wear a primer. Foundation primer will create a base between your moisturizer and whatever color choices you make next (foundation, powder, blush).

Foundation primer is a simple step, but one that can can save you money in the long run. Foundation primer acts like any other primer -- it seals in what's underneath, and creates a good base upon which to make your foundation. When you use a primer, you will notice that you use less of your foundation, powder, and blush, as it is sitting on the primer, and not soaking into the skin.

Primer is not to be considered a moisturizer, even if it is labeled as having moisturizing benefits. Primer should be a separate step -- moisturize, let it dry, prime, let it dry, then proceed with your color (foundation, powder, blush -- whatever it is that you do).

One of the other choices you can make when your colors are changing on you is to modify what products you are using. If you realize that a light pink is going to turn peach on you, then use it with a warm color palette -- peach, oranges, browns. That way, you can use what you have -- no wasting of product!

I tend to have very oily skin in the summer time, and dry skin in the winter. I have to modify what I wear during each season, as primer doesn't help me in the summer. For me, it is easier to know what I can wear. I have 2 blushes that I know will work, no matter the season -- a soft brown, and a brown-pink. Both are from Merle Norman (Soft Mocha and Dusty Rose Lasting Cheek Color, if you're interested). I switch up my blushes from time to time -- I love MAC mineral blushes in the fall. However, my go-to blushes tend to be those two colors, as I know that no matter the season, they won't change too much on me. They are both light shades, so at the most, the color just intensifies.